I can't believe I have already been here for 10 days! The time has really gone by fast. While with my mom I definitely got out of the camping routine and it was hard to jump back into it. Especially as I mentioned, everything had to planned out ahead of time. Well, as one might imagine, I didn't stick to the plan and it all worked out in the end. My opinion of Kauai has drastically changed from when I first arrived. I had some major life changing moments during my time here and I can't wait to share how I am feeling about my experience.
Maybe it was getting back into the swing of things or maybe it was because the weather was a bit colder and cloudier then I was hoping for but during my first couple days on Kauai I really convinced myself I was not going to like this island as much as the other two. The first two nights I was camped at Anahola Beach Park. It is on the East side of the island and definitely had a more local feel. It was pretty quiet with not many campers and lots of chickens and roosters. The other islands had them as well but Kauai definitely has the most. Despite being camped at such a beautiful beach the weather was definitely not beach weather so I spent the first part of my time on the island out on the trails, hiking.
On Tuesday I set out for a couple short trails near the campgrounds. The first was Nounou Mountain or "The Sleeping Giant" and the second was the Kuilau Ridge Trail. Neither were very challenging or very exciting compared to the hikes I had been on in Oahu, but enjoyable all the same. On Wednesday I was already headed to the next campground, Ha'ena which was the furthest North West of all the county campgrounds and also the closest to the Na Pali coast. I set up camp early and went on an 8 mile hike along the Na Pali coast to a waterfall called Hanakapiai. When I arrived to the trailhead I noticed it was actually the start of another trail Kalalau, an eleven mile one-way trail. It shared the trail with Hanakapiai for the first two miles and then they separated off. Hanakapiai was a great trail! Challenging at some parts, with multiple stream crossings to maneuver, and featured a gorgeous waterfall. The whole way back I knew I was going to have to do the Kalalau trail. I decided to write a separate entry discussing the Kalalau trail because it was such a powerful experience.
I returned from Kalalau Friday evening and could not imagine setting up camp again at Ha'ena. I decided to get a room at the Westin in Princeville where I took a hot shower, soaked in the jacuzzi, and did all my laundry, it was wonderful. The Westin is a sister property of the St. Regis so I able to use all the amenities at the St. Regis as well. Saturday was finally the first gorgeous day since I arrived so it was the perfect excuse to relax and soak up the sun. I took full advantage of the pool, beach, and coaktails. I was beginning to learn that just like the other islands there is a wet and dry side. A couple at the St. Regis was telling me they were there for 15 days and that was their first sunny day!! Doesn't sound very enjoyable to me. The south side is the "dry" side and it almost never rains. That was where I was headed but because I hiked the Na Pali coast I messed up my camping permit dates and only had a permit for Saturday night and wasn't leaving until Wednesday night. I was planning on going to a state park in Waimea canyon Sunday to Wednesday which I didn't need to book that in advance. I was concerned however because the forecast was calling for rain in the area on Sunday and Monday. I think part of me enjoyed that resort a bit too much as well. As I got further south and the sky grew darker not only with clouds but it was getting pretty late to be setting up rain tarps and all in the dark, I made the executive decision to get another hotel in Poipu, which is in the south.
The town of Poipu had great beaches and the resort had some great amenities as well, including a Super Bowl party starting at 1:30pm (and I thought games in California had early start times). Looks like I was staying for two nights! Definitely a Super Bowl of firsts for me. It was a great game to watch! I had a great time with a group of strangers having a free buffet and drinks all night. I guess the bartender liked me because my tab was $7 😉. It was awesome to have been able to stay at such nice places for a few days recovery from my epic voyage and enjoy some beautiful weather, however it was time to get back to the hammock before I broke the bank.
My original plan was to head to Waimea canyon and camp at the state park there. The forecast was right and it did rain the night before, heavy. The wind was pretty intense as well. The canyon was muddy and very cold. The campground there was empty, I didn't see a soul. I thought, "Why camp here and freeze alone when I can go camp 15 minutes away and be on the beach 20 degrees warmer." The canyon was at a much higher elevation and although it wasn't freezing compared to Jersey, it was cold to me, probably 50 at night. The canyon was gorgeous though. One thing about these islands that amazes me is how diverse the terrain is. I feel like the Caribbean is flat beaches, that's it. Maybe it is because for the most part anytime I went we just stayed at a resort the whole time?
I'm glad I left the canyon and stayed at Salt Pond campground instead. It was probably one of the nicest campgrounds I stayed at, besides Olowalu on Maui, which was private. I think it gets its name because it's like a baby beach, a protected cove with almost no waves and looks like a pond or lake. My hammock was set up right on the beach and about 50 yards from a monk seal. Talk about the best neighbor ever! It was another gorgeous sunset and a beautiful clear night under the stars. The perfect last night of camping on Kauai. Tuesday the campground closed for their weekly "maintenance" day. I don't think they really do much maintenance at the park but it is a way to keep people from living at a campsite full-time. As Wednesday was drawing near I was getting more and more upset about leaving. I decided that one thing I really wanted to do before I left was go on the kayak tour to Wailua Falls.
The tour was in Kapaa, on the East side. Another great thing about Kauai is that you can get to anywhere on the island pretty quickly. Since Kapaa was on the East I found a hostel close by since I had to go to one of their earliest tours since I was flying out in the afternoon. I spent all day Tuesday enjoying the beach based on the assumption that the Big Island will be colder and cloudier, but I've been wrong before...and then drove back over to Kapaa.
I haven't stayed at a hostel since the very beginning of my trip in Chicago where I got a private room because I was hesitant and I talked to no one! This time I stayed in a mixed dorm room with 8 other people of all various ages from 20 to 60!! I thought I was going to turn in early since I had the kayak trip in the AM but I ended up seeing a girl that I first met at that the rental car place and then saw on the Kalalau trail. I couldn't believe now here she was again! Needless to say a big group of us stayed up pretty late telling "stories of the trail" and our experiences on the various islands.
After watching the most gorgeous sunrise from the deck at the hostel I headed to the kayaking trip. It was a small group of myself, a couple in their fifties from Washington state, and a family from Northern California. The guide Lisa was actually second cousin's with the one woman. They had never met until a few days before. Lisa was a very interesting woman. Hiking with no shoes, playing her bongo talking about her life on the islands. It was a nice tour. About a 2 mile paddle down the Wailua river and then a mile hike out to the waterfall and then we turned around and came back. I really liked Lisa's energy as a person and she gave me so many tips about the Big Island, even though it had been over 15 years she had been there.
I am really going to miss Kauai, but I am looking forward to what's next! As much as I wish I could have stayed longer I received authorization from California to take my pharmacy law exam so I am anxious to get home and buckle down and start studying!
AROOOOOOOOO!!!!! 🍍🌊🌺🌈🌦😎🐋
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Trip thus far
Maui - all camping, minimal hiking, tons of turtles and whales, dolphins one day
Oahu - no camping, tons of hiking, one turtle, whales on the last day, monk seals, no dolphins
Kauai - half camping half resorts, half hiking half beaching, no whales, no turtles, monk seals, dolphins one day - I actually never went snorkeling so it's kind of hard to find turtles if you aren't looking
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